see the real vietnam on a motorcycle tour

My Son is a Hindu temple complex, located in the village of Duy Phú, in the administrative district of Duy Xuyên in Quang Nam province in Central Vietnam, 69km southwest of Da Nang, and approximately 10 km from the historic town of Tra Kieu. It comprises many Champa temples, in a valley roughly two kilometres wide, surrounded by two mountain ranges.

It was the site of religious ceremonies for the Kings of the empire of Champa, and was also a burial place of Cham royals and national heroes. The My Son temple complex is one of the foremost temple complexes for Hinduism in South East Asia and is the premier heritage site of this type in Vietnam.

Raising 693m out of the Eastern sea and covered with pristine rainforest, Son Tra Peninsula, or Monkey Mountain as it is also known brings natural beauty right to Da Nang’s doorstep. This largely undeveloped stretch of land was until quite recently solely the domain of the Vietnamese military due to its strategic value as the guardian of Da Nang harbor.

With its pristine natural beauty and varied fauna and flora, Son Tra is a delight to ride around. The sweeping and sometimes quite steep roads will see you riding higher than Hai Van Pass with the chance to glimpse rare monkeys and the certainty of seeing old growth forest. This highly panoramic road also passes highly significant American War era sites and the largest female Budha in Vietnam at the impressive Linh Ứng pagoda.

Just to the North of Da Nang and on the way to the ancient capital of Hue lies the infamous Hai Van Pass. The opening of the tunnel in 2005 has seen this winding road change from a motorbike riders nightmare into a riders dream, with all bar a few cars and trucks now taking the subterranean route. The view from the top is spectacular and an old French come American fort stands in silent witness to the pass’s important military history.

In 2008, the boys from Top Gear made this pass even more famous when they crossed over it in their Vietnam special. Richard Hammond’s choice of motorbike, one of Hoi An Motorbike Adventure’s Minsks served him well and lapped up the road with aplomb.

Between our base in Hoi An and the booming port city of Danang lies Marble Mountain and My Khe Beach. Known to the Vietnamese as Non Nuoc, which literally means “Our Country”, it was nicknamed China Beach by American GIs on R&R. This long stretch of beach offers views to the mountainous headlands North of Danang and the Cham Islands to the east. Just behind the beach, five rocky outcrops known as Marble Mountain have long been sacred to the Vietnamese and still serve as Buddhist temples.

Nestled in the Truong Son mountain range and sitting astride the beautiful Kon River is the land named Bho Hoong. In the 1970’s as the American war was finishing an ethnic minority, the Co Tu, moved their people from the devastated highlands near the Laos border to this promising new location. Within a few years a traditional ethnic minority village, bearing the land’s name, came in to existence and blends in with the rugged landscape with an ease only true mountain people can muster.

Fast forward 30 or so years and now stands a village of just 315 souls whose lives are ruled by the seasons just as they have been for time immemorial. Traditional agriculture, especially the cultivation of sticky rice and vegetables dominate local life. The ancient practice of weaving can be seen everywhere, from the sturdy yet decorative clothing to buildings woven in a way that resists the very elements themselves. The largest and most decorative of these are the Guol and Moong houses. In the middle of the village common a totem pole stands as a silent witness to harvest festivals, marriages and funerals.

Those wishing for a taste of ethnic minority life in Vietnam are now welcome with the village opening its doors to intrepid travellers in 2013. A selection of stilted wood and rattan bungalows have been modernised to provide a comfortable experience and numerous traditional activities made available for those wishing for a unique getaway.

Hue originally rose to prominence as the capital of the Nguyen Lords, a feudal dynasty which dominated much of southern Vietnam from the 17th to the 19th century. In 1775 when Trinh Sam captured it, it was known as Phú Xuân. In 1802, Nguyễn Phúc Ánh (later Emperor Gia Long) succeeded in establishing his control over the whole of Vietnam, thereby making Huế the national capital.

Huế continued to be the capital until 1945, when Emperor Bảo Đại abdicated and a Communist government was established in Hà Nội (Hanoi), in the north. While Bảo Đại was briefly proclaimed “Head of State” with the help of the returning French colonialists in 1949 (although not with recognition from the Communists and the full acceptance of the Vietnamese people), his new capital was Sài Gòn (Saigon), in the south.

In the Vietnam War, Huế’s central position placed it very near the border between North Vietnam and South Vietnam. The city was located in the South. In the Tết Offensive of 1968, during the Battle of Hue, the city suffered considerable damage not only to its physical features but its reputation as well, most of it from American firepower and bombings on the historical buildings as well as the now infamous massacre at Huế committed by the Communist forces. After the war’s conclusion, many of the historic features of Huế were neglected, being seen by the victorious regime and some other Vietnamese as “relics from the feudal regime”, but there has since been a change of policy, and some parts of the historic city have been restored.

Khe Sanh is close to the Laos border and as such has the feel of a border crossing town. Bustling markets and thriving noodle shops make for a hectic scene each morning, though Khe Sanh is on the map because of the siege lasting 75 days in 1968 between the USA and the NVA in 1968 as well as its location within the demilitarised zone. The base was never overrun by the NVA though the battle was the most bloody for the Americans during the war and world-wide media coverage resulted in calls to end the American involvement to fever pitch. We visit the base, where today you wind find a museum and the landing strip adorned with various warplanes and other remnants from war time. The areas in and around Khe Sanh contain many sites of significance during the war (though many have decayed over time). A super cool and interesting place to visit by motorbike.

Phong Nha is a sleepy little town with absolutely stunning scenery all around. Famous for its caves and declared a UNESCO world heritage site in 2003, the town has seen a lot of change. It’s still sleepy and rural, though it now has an ATM and you can get pizza! The highlight however is the Phong Nha Khe Bang National Park, home to thousands of limestone caves (many yet to be discovered). The caves are the oldest in Asia, and archaeologists have dated them at around 400 million years old. The park is still tightly controlled by the military who closely guard access. The water in the rivers around the caves is so blue it’s scary and the caves are absolutely breathtaking in size and magnitude.

This trading post on the banks of the river Lo and near the Chinese border is steeped in history and culture and is perhaps best known for being the starting point of the famous motorbike loop named after it, one of the most spectacular in the country.

Another town close the Chinese border, Dong Van town is worth visiting for its UNESCO listed geopark. Located between 1400 to 1600 eters above sea level, you will encounter spectacular views from your motorbike, high up in the clouds. With 17 different ethnic groups living in this area, you are bound to have a truly local experience as you learn about unique cultures from the villagers.

The historical significance of Dien Bien Phu City in the north-west of Vietnam cannot be overstated. It was here where the French onceded defeat and French rule over Indochina came to an end in 1954.

Situated 150km from Hanoi, Mai Chau is a pastoral paradise. For miles into the distance all you can see is green between either side of the two giant cliffs that enclose the province. The ethnic Thai villages reveal a less-travelled side of Vietnam that feels utterly disconnected from the rest of the country, indeed the world; it is hard to imagine that in a mere few hours you can be back in the bustling chaos of the city.

Situated around halfway between Hanoi and Ha Giang, Ba Be is the largest natural lake in Vietnam and of the biggest freshwater lakes in the world. The lake was formed around 200 million years ago and is enclosed by limestone cliffs and lush green forests.

Mui Ne, in Binh Thuan Province,  has everything. Pristine beaches, beautiful winding coastal roads, local fishing villages and even sand dunes. Take a quad bike to the top of the famous red and white dunes or hire a driver with a jeep to take you. There are even several lakes and swamps here.

Revered by locals as the jewel in Vietnam’s crown, this almost literal land of milk and honey (the finest quality milk and wine proudly bear the words ‘made in Dalat’ on their bottles) is located 1,500m above sea level. There is so much to see here including a stunning cable car ride, countless waterfalls and a crazy house, known for its unique architecture and individually themed rooms. Dalat’s cooler climate makes it a welcome retreat for locals and tourists alike wanting to escape the heat and breath in its cool, misty air.

Nha Trang, located 420 km north of HCMC, is Vietnam’s answer to Miami.  Tall buildings – many still under construction – and palm trees devour the coastal roads. With beaches, resorts and scuba diving all a-plenty, it is no wonder this is a paradise for backpackers and tourists from other parts of Asia looking for some laid back time in the sun.  Nha Trang Bay is thought of as of the most beautiful bays in the world. Be sure to visit Po Nagar Tower, built in the time of the Champa Kingdom.

Kon Tum is a border town in Kon Tum Province, located near Laos and Cambodia. Like Dalat, it retains much of the architecture from the French colonial period. French missionaries first settled here in 1851. But this is contrasted with the tribal villagers who live nearby in the suburbs.  Some sites to see here include the Roman Catholic wooden church. This was a French-built seminary that now houses a museum on local hill tribes.

Ngoc Linh is a national park in the Annamite range, towering some 2598m into the air and earning it the nickname the ‘roof of southern Vietnam’. Geographically, the park is split between the provinces of Quang Nam and Kon Tum. It is also close to Da Nang, Vietnam’s third city. Ngoc Linh is particularly well known for the large variety of plants and flowers that grow there.